Nearly a decade ago, I spent 10 unforgettable days in a campervan under Iceland’s Midnight Sun, and I’m still processing the magic of it all. This wasn’t a sponsored trip or a work assignment—just my wife and me (prior to kids), a campervan, and an ambitious plan to tackle both the legendary Ring Road and the remote West Fjords.
Here’s everything I learned, saw, and experienced along the way.
But before we dive in, you’re probably wondering why I’m writing about this trip nearly ten years later.
Prior to launching Yodl in 2025, I worked for a cruise travel agency. Since my Iceland trip was not a cruise, I never thought it made much sense to share my experience online. That’s not to say that you can’t cruise to Iceland—it routinely appears on top 10 lists of trending cruise destinations—but we specifically chose not to travel by ship. My wife and I had an idea for a different kind of adventure. Fast forward nine years, and here I am at Yodl enthusiastically promoting travel in all its diverse forms, cruising and beyond!
Now the more important question…
Why Iceland? Why a Campervan?
Iceland had been on our bucket list for years, and 2016 finally felt like the right time. We chose June specifically for the Midnight Sun—having nearly 24 hours of daylight gave us incredible flexibility to hike in the evenings or stop for photos whenever the light looked perfect.
We opted for a campervan from Go Campers instead of hotels, which turned out to be one of our best decisions. The freedom to wake up next to a glacier or fall asleep listening to the ocean was irreplaceable. Plus, I’m the type of person who gets anxious about being late for things, and I didn’t want to put myself (or my wife) through the stress of constantly trying to adhere to a fixed schedule. If we had bad weather and needed an extra day to see a site under blue skies, I wanted that flexibility. Or if something was underwhelming (spoiler: nothing was) and we wanted to breeze on through, I wanted that opportunity as well.
Without further ado, buckle up—we’re going to Iceland, and we’re doing it in a campervan!
My 10-Day Itinerary
Part 1: The Iconic South Coast & Golden Circle
After landing early and grabbing coffee and pastries in Reykjavik, we picked up our campervan and hit the road before our jetlag could set in. We were excited and hopeful that a healthy dose of sunshine and adventure would sustain us!
The Golden Circle was our first stop. This 190-mile loop from Reykjavik includes three of Iceland’s most famous sites:
Þingvellir National Park: A UNESCO World Heritage site where you can literally stand between the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates. The continental drift here is about 2cm per year, which is mind-boggling to think about while standing there in person.
Geysir: While the original Geysir (which gave all geysers their name) is mostly dormant now, Strokkur erupts every 5-10 minutes, shooting water 15-40 meters into the air. Tip: Stand upwind to avoid getting soaked!
Gullfoss: This massive two-tiered waterfall drops 32 meters into a rugged canyon. We spent way more time here than planned—it’s absolutely mesmerizing.
We also visited Friðheimar, a tomato greenhouse ranch where they use geothermal energy to grow produce. The lunch was fantastic and such a quirky, unexpected find. Having been back in January 2020, I can say it’s a bit more popular with group tours, but still retains its charm. By the way, that 2020 visit is a tale for another day—hold me to it!
We continued to our first campsite and settled in for our first evening in the campervan. Despite our exhaustion, I recall that it took some time to fall asleep. I’ll attribute this to our excitement from a day that did nothing but exceed expectations.
The South Coast Waterfalls were everything we’d hoped for:
Seljalandsfoss: You really can walk behind this 60-meter waterfall! Bring a rain jacket—you will get wet. The trail can be slippery, so wear proper shoes, and do a better job of following the signage than we did…
Skógafoss: We climbed all 527 steps to the top for panoramic views. On sunny days, you’ll often see double rainbows in the mist below. It’s one of those scenes that will never be done justice by a photograph.
We continued on to explore Reynisfjara, the famous black sand beach. The basalt columns and sea stacks are just as dramatic as the photos suggest. Important safety tip: Stay well back from the water’s edge and never turn your back on the ocean here—”sneaker waves” can be deadly and have claimed lives.
The town of Vik was blanketed in purple lupine flowers when we visited—absolutely beautiful, though we later learned these are actually invasive species that Iceland is trying to control.
We were starting to find our groove with our campervan setup, and spent the night in Vik.
Part 2: The Glaciers, Lagoons, and Otherworldly East
This stretch of the journey completely changed my understanding of what landscapes could look like.
Vatnajökull Glacier is Europe’s largest ice cap, covering about 8% of Iceland’s landmass. We joined a guided glacier hike (you absolutely cannot do this without a guide—crevasses are invisible and deadly). Walking on ancient blue ice, hearing it crack and shift beneath you—it’s an alien landscape that photos simply can’t capture. Tip: Book these tours in advance during summer because they fill up quickly.
Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon was surreal. Thousand-year-old icebergs calve off the glacier and drift through the lagoon toward the ocean. Across the road, Diamond Beach is where smaller icebergs wash up on black sand—they genuinely look like scattered diamonds.
After a long day of exploring, we treated ourselves to dinner at Pakkhús Restaurant in Höfn. This town is Iceland’s langoustine capital, and the meal was phenomenal. Local beer paired perfectly with the fresh seafood. I’m glad to see they’re still around and rocking a 4.8/5 rating on Google.
Part 3: The Geothermal North & Dramatic Landscapes
As we drove up the East Fjords and continued counter-clockwise, we noticed the crowds thinning and the landscape transforming into something volcanic and steaming.
Mývatn Geothermal Area felt like another planet:
Viti Crater: We got as close as possible to this turquoise crater lake formed by a volcanic eruption in 1724. There was still snow in June!
Hverir: We meandered around countless bubbling mud pots and steaming fumaroles that smell strongly of sulfur. The vibrant colors—oranges, yellows, reds—come from sulfur and iron deposits.
Hverfjall: This massive tephra crater is about 1km in diameter. The 30-minute hike to the rim is steep but manageable, and the views are incredible.
Nature Baths: Instead of the overcrowded Blue Lagoon (which requires advance booking and costs significantly more), we soaked at the Mývatn Nature Baths (now known as Earth Lagoon Myvatn). The mineral-rich geothermal water sits at a perfect 97-104°F, and it was known at the time for being far less touristy. Tip: Go in the evening when it’s quieter.
As a Game of Thrones fan, I also sought out filming locations, including the Grjótagjá cave, which was used for one of Jon and Ygritte’s scenes. The water inside used to be swimmable but is now too hot (around 122°F) due to volcanic activity.
Godafoss: Even under an overcast sky, the “Waterfall of the Gods” commands awe, its powerful waters dramatically pouring from 12 meters high into a pool with multiple viewpoints.
In Akureyri, Iceland’s second-largest city (though only about 20,000 people), we had incredible lamb for dinner at Strikid Restaurant & Bar. After passing thousands of sheep on our drive—Iceland has about 800,000 sheep for only 400,000 people—eating local lamb felt right, but also a little wrong… I have no regrets, however.
Part 4: The Wild West Fjords & Unforgettable Meals
The West Fjords are where Iceland really reveals itself. This remote peninsula is home to only 7,000 people—about 2% of Iceland’s population—and the roads can be challenging, with many unpaved sections. Having our campervan was essential here since accommodation options are extremely limited.
The best meal of the trip happened in Ísafjörður at Tjörhúsið. This all-you-can-eat, family-style buffet featured the day’s catch cooked in every way imaginable—grilled, fried, in soups, and chowders. You sit on long benches with other travelers, passing platters back and forth. It’s rustic, authentic, and absolutely delicious. Tip: They only serve dinner and it’s popular, so make an advanced reservation.
Dynjandi is a massive, fan-shaped waterfall in the Westfjords, and walking up the path past all the smaller cascades to get close to the powerful main drop was spectacular.
Látrabjarg Cliffs mark the westernmost point of Europe (excluding some outlying islands). The drive there involves narrow, winding roads along cliff edges—definitely not for the faint of heart. But the reward is standing atop 14-kilometer-long cliffs (up to 440 meters high) with hundreds of puffins nesting just feet away. Atlantic puffins are only in Iceland from May to August, so we timed our trip perfectly. Tip: Wear sturdy shoes—the long grasses hide uneven terrain, and the wind is intense.
To cut down on driving time back south, we took the Baldur Ferry from Brjanslaekur. This 2.5-hour ferry across Breiðafjörður bay saves hours of driving and offers gorgeous views of countless small islands. Tip: Book this ferry in advance and don’t be late. It only runs twice daily in summer.
Part 5: The Grand Finale—A Hike We’ll Never Forget
Our final major adventure was hiking to Glymur waterfall, Iceland’s second-highest waterfall at 198 meters. This 7.5km round-trip hike is legitimately challenging:
- You cross a river on a single log (with a cable to hold)
- Pull yourself up steep inclines using fixed ropes
- Ford a freezing river at the top to complete the loop (this part may have been our mistake…)
My wife later admitted that if she’d known how difficult it would be, she might have skipped it—but also that she would have regretted missing it forever. The raw beauty and sense of accomplishment were worth every difficult moment.
Important tip: This hike requires good fitness, proper hiking boots with ankle support, and the willingness to get your feet wet. Don’t attempt it in bad weather.
Practical Tips for Future Travelers
Campervans: Book well in advance, especially for summer travel—campervans get snapped up quickly. We used Go Campers and had a great experience. Make sure you understand Iceland’s insurance requirements (the gravel/ash coverage is essential for Ring Road travel) and know the limitations of your vehicle.
Campsites: Iceland has excellent campsite infrastructure. Most cost around $10-$20 USD per person, per night and have good facilities. Wild camping is technically legal but with restrictions, and campsites are affordable and frequent enough that we always used them.
Weather: Even in June, pack for all seasons. We experienced everything from 75°F sunshine to near-freezing wind and rain, sometimes in the same day. Layers are essential.
Roads: The Ring Road (Route 1) is entirely paved and well-maintained. The West Fjords have many gravel roads with steep grades—drive slowly and carefully. Gas stations can be sparse; always fill up when you see one.
Budget: Iceland is relatively expensive, but not shocking. Expect to pay $15-20 for a basic meal, $8-10 for a beer. Grocery stores (Bónus is the cheapest) are your friend for keeping costs down.
Northern Lights: We didn’t see them—you can’t during the Midnight Sun season. Come in winter (September-March) for aurora viewing, but be prepared for very short days and potentially impassable roads. Remember how I said I went back in January 2020… consider yourself teased.
Final Thoughts
This trip exceeded every expectation. Iceland’s landscapes feel genuinely otherworldly—you’ll understand why so many sci-fi movies film there. The combination of glaciers, volcanoes, waterfalls, and geothermal features packed into such a small area is incredible.
Our 10-day Ring Road plus West Fjords itinerary was ambitious but doable. We could have easily spent two weeks, but we managed to hit all our priority sites.
If you’re considering Iceland, do it. And seriously consider the campervan—waking up in the valley of a fjord never gets old.
Have questions about planning your own Iceland adventure? Find a travel advisor that matches your travel style on Yodl!
